Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Plymouth, Boston, Nahant, Lenox (July 31-August 10)


The trip from Onset thru the Cape Cod Canal to Plymouth was done in perfect weather.

Entrance to Plymouth Harbor


Plymouth as one can imagine is all about the landing of the pilgrims and the establishment of the colony.  We saw the Rock (more like an overgrown pebble), toured the Mayflower and took a trolley tour of the town.  In retrospect it was a mistake not to visit Plimouth Plantation, a reproduction of the original settlement.  It is unimaginable how 110 colonists, 30 crew along with all provisions and live stock fit on the Mayflower for the 66 day journey.  The boat was only about 90’ long on deck.  The colonists were restricted to below decks most of the time to avoid interfering with the crew.  They encountered several bad storms along the way so one can only imagine how things smelled below decks with all the sick people.  Two babies were born enroute.

Mayflower Reproduction


We pushed on to Boston on August 2; again in very pleasant weather.  Docked in Charlestown, a short walk to Northend, all of Boston is very convenient.  The Northend is a long established Italtian neighborhood.  Naturally, we had to go to Regina’s for pizza the night we arrived.  They have been serving pizza in the same small spot since 1926.  We waited in line outside for 30 minutes which apparently goes on all day.  Jim’s pizza was great.  Debby ordered wrong and did not like hers.  When the waitress found out she offered to have another pizza made of any variety for us to take home.  Great service!

Boston Skyline


August 3 we toured Beacon Hill on foot.  Of course you cannot visit this area without a stop at Cheers.

Cheers

Typical Beacon Hill


Our foot tour continued to Back Bay’s shopping area of Newbury St. and Boylston St.  all the way down to the Prudential Center where we rode the elevator to the 52nd floor and had a drink at the Top of the Hub.  In between we had lunch at the Parish CafĂ© which was excellent.

On the 4th we continued our exploration of the city by going to the Southend to see the townhouse Jim rehabbed in 1969.  During that era these row houses which were built in the 1850s were in a very bad neighborhood.  Many of the buildings had become rooming houses for derelicts .  They had at one time all been elegant homes and the late 60s early 70s saw a renaissance as people began to restore the homes to their original charm.   Jim and his partner Bob Shupe did most of the renovation themselves making the former rooming house into two apartments .  Jim lived there during the renovation and after completion for a year while he did his Masters at MIT.  Purchased for $10k, after over a year of sweat equity and another year of comfortable living the place was sold for $45K.  Now for the interesting part.  The realtor that was used occupied an office one block away.  As it turns out it is still there under the same name, but the original realtor is now dead.  The current realtor told us that house has been converted again into a single family unit and is now worth $3.6Mil !!!

On the 5th we rented a car.  Jim drove to Quincy to get a new alternator for the port engine then we drove to the North Shore so Jim could revisit some of his other old residences.  For the first few months upon arrival at GE in Lynn in 1963 Jim had a 3rd floor apartment across the street from the beach in Swampscott (House 1).  He then moved to a one bedroom basement apartment shared with 2 other engineers in House 2 in Lynn for a year.  The following 4 years were spent on the island of Nahant in a 2 bedroom apartment shared with 2 other engineers.  (House 3, red brick).

House 1 Swampscott
House 2 Lynn
House 3 Nahant


On the 6th we drove to the Berkshire Mountains to visit our good friends Dan and Madeline Hajjar.  They have a lovely cottage on Laurel Lake that has been in the family since the 50s.

Madeline, Dan, Debby, Jim
The Cottage
Lake View


On Friday the 7th we toured “The Mount” former home of the famous author, Edith Wharton.  She was the first woman to win the Pulitzer Prize for literature.  The house was built in 1903 with interesting architectural features and outstanding views of the mountains and the lake.  She had interesting house guests such as Henry James and led an exciting life with frequent trips to Europe.

That evening we had a wonderful Asian style dinner at JAE’s followed by a pre-opening of a play “My Girl Friday.”  The dinner was definitely better than the play, but the nightcap at the Gateway Inn (former home of the Proctors of Proctor and Gamble) rounded out an altogether enjoyable evening.

Jazz Group at Gateway Inn


The next morning Dan and Jim got some exercise kayaking on the lake prior to departure back to Boston.

The Kayakers


On the 9th Jim installed the new alternator then we went to the Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum of Fine Art for our cultural fix.  No stay near the North End would be complete without going to a local Italian restaurant.  A 10 minute walk away was Massimono’s  a small neighborhood place where we enjoyed veal scaloppini and linguini carbonara.  Our host Paolo DiGiovani, was the archetypical Italian restauranteur.


Gardener Museum
Gardener Museum
Paolo DiGiovanni
Massimono's